845-564-0630

1775 Route 300
Newburgh, NY 

12550

Sherwoods Power Equipment

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We can ship
most parts
anywhere
in the USA!

Just call us!

sherwoodispower
@hotmail.com


M-F 8:30am - 6pm
Sat. 8:30am - 4pm
Sun. - Closed

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We sell Aggrand products. We sell Amsoil products.

Hand Held Equipment Maintenance

 

2 Stroke engines:

  1. Use high quality (Stihl/Redmax/etc.) premix oil meant for air cooled engines. Don't even skimp here.  If you do, you risk voiding the warranty, scoring the piston/cylinder wall, clogging the exhaust, decreased performance, and ultimately shortening/ending the  life of engine overall.
    ---No outboard oil.  No universal 2 stroke oil.  Not even oil from a gas station.

  2. Always run with higher octane fuel (91-93 octane); helps engine to run cooler.

  3. Clean out your air filter regularly. (Brush off the debris with an old tooth brush.)

  4. Put in a bit of Marvel Mystery Oil (1 cap full per 1 gal) into the fuel can. We don't know what's in it, but it seems to work for some.

  5. Always stabilize the fuel in the can.

  6. Empty out the fuel left in the saw when finished, and then Run the machine dry at low RPM... or see step #8, below.

  7. Do not store fuel in your equipment for longer than 4 weeks.  To store your 2 stroke/4mix equipment, just empty out the fuel, then start the machine and let it idle until it quits.

or, just skip the above and just go to Step "9"...

  1. For homeowners, use Stihl, Redmax, or VP fuel. These have at least 92 octane fuel and quality synthetic premix in it already. The most important part of this gasoline is that is has NO ethanol.  This means no more goop in the carb, which plugs it up.
     

  2. We have noticed that when we run this in our own personal equipment, it actually improves performance.  You can hear it, and you can feel it.  Another advantage is that if you happen to forget to run your machine out of fuel at the end of the season, these fuels will help ensure it will run again next season with minimal problem...  with a shelf life of 2 years!  You need to use this!

Chain saw Chains: 

  1. Keep your chain tight. If it droops below the bar, tighten it.  If the chain runs off the bar, you risk destroying the chain and the bar (plus other parts as well- not to mention your own bodily self).

  2. Use bar and chain oil for lubrication, and nothing but! Use winter grade for winter (less than 50 degrees F) and for smaller saws all year long. Use regular grade for the rest of the year in medium and large saws.

  3. You know your saw is dull when...

    • You have to press down hard on the saw to cut.

    • When you see saw dust, instead of saw chips.  Then it's is time to have it professionally sharpened. Don't file it yourself unless you REALLY know what you're doing (you can make matters drastically worse)

  4. Don't buy cheap chains. Buy from a reputable (Stihl ®) dealer. Cheap chains available at various 'cheap' stores are made of cheap material, and may very well not even fit correctly. It may even ruin you bar/chain/clutch drum! (we've seen it). Plus cheap chains dull quicker, and many can only be sharpened a few times! (All to save a buck!).

  5. There are basically 4 types:

Type Stihl ID Cutter Dull Rate Speed Risk
PicoMicro

Used on lighter saws, 
3/8 x .043 guage

"Green" PicoMicro slow OK minimal Picco Micro 1
Non-Guardlink
Semi Chisel

Slight increase in kickback possibility, but cuts well, dulls slower.

"Yellow" Semi chisel OK OK increased Rapid Microâ„¢ (RM)
Duro 3

Carbide tipped.  Slight increase in kickback possibility.  Stays sharp up to 4x longer.

"Green" Semi Chisel OK much slower minimal
Full chisel

Increase in kickback possibility. Cuts fast, but dulls fast.

"Yellow" Full chisel much faster much faster even more Rapid Super (RS)

When you replace your saw chain, there are dimensions you need to know about...

  1. First rule is this: It is our experience that big box stores do not tell you enough information to be able to buy the correct chain. Avoid them.

  2. There is a chain link length dimension:
    3/8 lp, .325, 3/8, .404

  3. There is a drive link thickness:
    .043, .050, .058, .063

  4. There is a chain length, measured by drive links
    -Not bar length.

Confused?  Come see us with your chain in hand, no matter what you have, no matter what brand... we can probably make one up for you.

Chain saw Bars:

  1. For even wear, flip your bar (top/bottom) every time you have your chain sharpened.

  2. When you take off the chain, clean out the length of the bar groove with a bar tool, and lubricate the tip if needed (depends upon bar).  Make sure you clean out the end of the bar that hooks up to the saw; especially those small circular oil ports!

  3. Keep the clutch area cleaned out while you're in there.

  4. Use Stihl approved bar and chain oil, not the cheap stuff! Blue bottle (winter grade) for below 40'f, and orange bottle for over 40'f.

  5. For the pro grade saws, there are 2 types of bars; laminated, and solid. Laminated bars are generally 3 pieces of steel riveted together to make the bar. Stihl's laminated bars are still great bars, albeit not quite as long lasting as their solid bars.

  6. There are many dimensions to be aware of when purchasing bars. We stock Stihl bars to fit most every Stihl saw. 

Brush Blades:

  1. Inspect them regularly. If they have any crack whatsoever (inside out, or outside in) replace it.

  2. A rule of thumb for blade selection is this: Less cutting teeth (4 tip) are great for tall grass/light stuff. The more cutting teeth (8 - 80) the better it will be on heavy brush -- but the 80 tooth does not fare well in grass (but terrific in woody brush).

  3. Blades can successfully  be sharpened by file, just be patient and careful.

  4. Use the right blade for the job (No circular saw blades)

    • 3 tooth is for hay or tall grass.

    • 4 tooth blades are for heavier weeds and light wood

    • 8 tooth for up to 1/2" wood, and dense grass

    • 80 tooth for up to 1" wood, and light grass

    • Chain saw shaped teeth: for anything greater than 1", no grass.

Hedge Trimmer Blades:

  1. Keep debris clean out.

  2. Never stick your hands near the blades when the engine is running. (EVER!)

  3. Clean and lubricate with Stihl Hedge trimmer cleaner.

  4. Remember hedge trimmers are designed for hedge trimming... they are not designed to trim tree limbs.

  5. We can sharpen most pro hedge trimmer blades, but many homeowner units have unusual blade configurations, and we cannot sharpen them.  When in doubt, bring the unit by and just ask.

Backpack/Hand Held Blowers

  1. Keep debris cleaned out of the air input area.

  2. Clean out your air filter.

  3. Watch where you aim those things! You could sand blast your car!